Months of anticipation preceded what would be my longest motorcycle trip to date. Ever since I started talking trips like these I wanted to head west to see the Rockies (probably from looking at too many of Tad's pictures). After introducing my Dad to sport touring last year, it was a rather simple task convincing him to join me for a week trip to Colorado and beyond.
With that, we saddled up our bikes - my VFR800 and his ST1100. In addition to our normal luggage we added tents, sleeping bags, and some basic camping supplies for this trip. Our only plans were to head west from Chicago on Rt 80 to Colorado and then figure it out from there. What follows is a recap of the 9 days and 4300 miles we spent on the road.
Day 1 - June 16, 2000 (Friday)
528 miles
Being 1000 miles from the mile high city of Denver, CO means there is a good two days (for the average rider) of interstate riding to start the trip off with. With my VFR fully packed I left home around 10am to meet my Dad near I88 and I39 where we would begin our westward journey. Shortly before leaving I called to confirm our plans and my Dad informed me of a brief shower we would run through. Sure enough, about 25 minutes from home I hit a nice rain shower that actually felt good and cooled things down a bit. I also knew that I didn't have to turn around and go home for 9 days so I didn't really care either way. After meeting up with my Dad we merged onto I88, paid the almost $1 toll, and were into Iowa in no time. Once in Iowa we stopped for gas and our first of many Subway sandwiches. The miles were going on pretty good and the bikes were doing great. I was also very glad to have my newly acquired AM/FM radio cranking the tunes in my helmet to help pass the time.
Once on I80 we continued west and stopped for gas two more times this day. We also took a few breaks at the rest stops along the way as the head wind was rather strong for most of the afternoon. As we approached the Nebraska border, we started thinking about where to stop for the night. We ended up pressing on to just outside of Lincoln, NB and attempted to find a hotel. I had been thinking it might be nice to camp the first night out, but wasn't sure if my Dad would be up for it. However, after two hotels wanting more than $70 a night we both agreed to look for a campsite. With a little help from an RV and a couple of billboards, we ended up at the Branched Oak Lake State Recreation Area. Being a rookie at camping I forgot about stopping for food before leaving the interstate so it looked like we might be eating tank bag food for dinner. We got lucky though and ended up having a very nice bar food dinner at a local Marina within walking distance from our campsite on the water. After dinner I walked outside to hear an Eagles tune playing on the radio. The lyric were "..don't even try to understand, just find a place to make your stand.." The words seemed to make perfect sense at the time.
Pictures:
Our first campsite along the lake
Day 2 - June 17, 2000 (Saturday)
509 miles
I awoke this morning not as rested as I had hoped to be. Again, being a rookie camper, I had set my tent up on a minor hill which left me feeling like I was going to roll into the water all night long. At any rate, I started up our mini-propane cooker and brewed a couple cups of coffee before we packed up camp. Instead of jumping immediately back onto the interstate, we paralleled I80 for a while over toward Seward, NB where we gassed up and had a great $3 biskets and gravy breakfast at the Corner Cafe'. I really enjoyed this mornings ride across 34 approaching Seward. There wasn't much traffic and it was a welcome change to the interstate. I think these were also some of the best biskets and gravy I've had to date.
After a few cups of coffee we saddled up and jumped back onto the interstate. We stopped one final time in NB for gas before crossing into CO where our first stop was at the welcome center. We gathered a few free maps and learned that Rocky Mountain National Park was closed because of a snow storm the night before. (in June!) The lady reassured us that they usually got the roads cleared quickly this time of year and gave me an 800 number to call in the morning to find out for sure.
Another 100 miles later and we thankfully said goodbye to the interstate and headed towards Greeley on Rt 34. We spent a little time looking for a motel this night and ended up in a pretty nice place on the west side of town. I spotted a good looking southwestern restaurant called Coyote's not far from the hotel and after a quick shower we headed out for our best sit down dinner of the trip. I think my Dad really enjoyed his meal this night (he's not much of a Mexican fan either) and we were both relieved to be done with the interstate and really looking forward to the mornings ride into the mountains which were barely visible from our hotel.
Pictures:
The Colorado countryside along I76
Day 3 - June 18, 2000 (Sunday)
429 miles
After a good nights sleep we awoke to a cool 50 degrees morning. Before leaving the hotel we took advantage of the continental breakfast and gathered a few traveler rolls for the road. With my electrics fully engaged, we set our sites on Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). In no time at all we were passing through Estes Park and approaching the entrance to RNMP. The road leading up to RNMP was absolutely beautiful with huge rocky cliffs bordering the road on either side. This was also the first time we encountered a road that actually had curves since leaving home so I picked up the pace a bit. Once into RMNP, however, I was completely overtaken by the scenery and found myself stopping often and taking many pictures this morning.
About 1/2 way up the mountain I stopped at an overlook and when I went to plug my electric vest back in one of the wires broke. My tools were buried pretty good in the Ventura so I did the best I could at trying to shove the wire back in until I could find boy-scout Bob (who would no-doubt have a little screwdriver handy). Sure enough, a short time later I met back up with my Dad and we stopped at what I think was the top of RMNP. After a few pictures, a couple of snowballs, and a quick vest fix, we continued on through the park. Just a word of warning for anyone thinking of passing through the mountains of CO. Don't forget your electric gear! The wind was blustery and temps were in the low 40s at the top of the mountain. The snow sure did make for some very nice scenery and pictures though. (like the one above of my Dad riding) Overall I was very-very impressed by RMNP and was on overload from the postcard scenery that seemed to get better around every corner.
After RMNP we went south on Rt 40 and eventually made our way to Mt. Evans.
The ride down Rt 40 was really fun for a while with several two lane 35 mph
"carousel" around the mountains. Once
onto I70 we grabbed a quick Subway sandwich before beginning our accent up
Mt. Evans. We had plans of stopping at the top and eating our lunch there,
however, those plans quickly feel apart. The road going up Mt. Evans is
rather treacherous and my Dad got quite freeked out by the road. I can't figure
out if it was because of all the drop-offs on the side of the road or the 1mph
corners. :-) I kind of enjoyed it personally and found myself passing a few cars
that also seemed to be having problems getting up the mountain. Once at
the top though my attitude changed. I was suddenly short of breath
and had some minor chest pains just from walking around at altitude.
After another 20 minutes my Dad finally made it to the top and when he took his
helmet off his face told the story. He was terrified of this mountain! Not
liking heights probably had something to do with his fear and he was also
suffering from altitude sickness. I was quick to point out the altitude warning
sign as it gave some advise about breathing on the mountain. My Dad
also asked me "if the mountain was moving" to which I suggested we begin
our decent from
+2 miles above sea level (14,260 feet at the top). The picture above was taken
from the top of Mt. Evans.
We stopped a couple thousand feet down at Summit Lake where we were finally able to eat our lunch. The scenery here was great and we took some time to relax a bit and catch our breath (literally). After lunch, once safely back to 5000 feet, we got back onto I70 and headed west towards Vail, CO. Along the way to Vail we crossed paths with another pair of bikes touring through the CO area, one of which was a 98/99 model VFR800 from Minnesota. I picked up the pace a bit and we rode as a group of 4 for about 15 minutes before they exited the interstate at Rt 91. If the riders who we road with happen to read this (perhaps a lister from the VFR list) I enjoyed our brief ride together.
After waving to the other bikes we continued on I70 for another 15 miles to Vail before turning south on Rt 24 towards Leadville. The 31 mile ride from the interstate into Leadville was a great ride and once again I was quite overtaken by the scenery. (as can been seen by the volume of pictures taken this day) After stopping to take a picture of a neat bridge that I remembered from one of Tad's reports, I spotted my Dad a few thousand feet below me on a side road near the stream to the right. After riding a short distance to get down there we both enjoyed the sound of the fast moving mountain stream for a while before moving on. I have to give my Dad credit here for finding such a neat spot to stop and enjoy a few minutes of nature. I could have spent an hour just watching the water go by.
After passing through Leadville we continued on Rt 24 to Rt 62 and the beginning of Independence Pass. The first part of this road was fabulous with huge trees all around but as we approached Aspen the road became a parking lot of slow moving cages that refused to let me by. Once into Aspen I hit about 2 minutes of rain before the sun came back out. I guess this is what they mean by passing mountains showers. After regrouping just outside of Aspen we made our way to Carbondale and went south on Rt 133 in search of a campsite. Around 7:30pm local time we finally found a campsite near Redstone and frantically setup camp before an approaching storm hit. I say frantic because the wind was really picking up and our campsite was sitting on a solid piece of rock that made our tent stakes worthless. We ended up getting creative (thanks to boy-scout Bob again) with some rocks and our bikes and managed to avoid visiting Dorothy Gail this evening. Dinner was the second half of our leftover Subway from lunch which we made sure to dispose of properly before turning in. This was our longest day of riding for the trip and the Sigma showed almost 9 hours of saddle time for me.
Pictures:
My VFR at Rocky Mountain National Park
One of many overlooks in the park
Look at all the SNOW (in June!)
A wild Elk running through RMNP
The VFR again roadside in the park
The bikes at the top of Mt. Evans
My VFR at Summit Lake
Same shot w/o the bike and under cloud cover
A typical view while riding across CO (along Rt 24)
A neat bridge approaching Leadville, CO
Day 4 - June 19, 2000 (Monday)
367 miles
I awoke this morning to learn that it had stormed pretty good the night before. Not only did our tents not leak a drop, but I completely sleep through it and was feeling very rested as a result. After drying out our tents as much as possible and consuming the leftover rolls from the morning before, we got saddled up and continued our journey south on Rt 133. This morning I made my Dad take the lead and was very happy just following for a change. Once into Hotchkiss we turned onto Rt 92 - a road that Tad had told me not to miss. A short time later we ran into a group of ranchers that appeared to be moving their cattle. I first saw what looked to be a cattle truck moving very slow ahead. A few seconds later I wasn't just slowing down - I was grabbing a big handful of brakes. The truck wasn't moving slow. It was parked in the middle of the road with it's flashes on to warn people of the cattle ahead. We slowed up, asked the ranchers if we could go ahead, then slowly made our way through the herd. My Dad got a couple of classic pictures of me (here is one) getting a little up close and personal with more than a few cows. I keep asking them "uummm....hey - how's it going. Now get out of my way!". :-) A good time was had by all I believe.
After our cattle herding was complete, we continued on 92 and the scenery really started improving again. The sun was also breaking through the remaining clouds from the storm the night before and the day was really starting to look good. To say that this section of road had beautiful scenery really doesn't even begin to do it justice. I must have stopped a dozen times or more to take pictures like the one to the right along the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The road also was rather twisty at times though I had to watch my speed around the left handers. I made it to the end of Rt 92 about 15 minutes before my Dad and enjoyed sitting along a very nice dammed up lake while I waited. The sun was shining, the temps were in the 70's and I couldn't have asked for more.
After regrouping we made our way west on Rt 50 to Montrose where we stopped at a local deli for a couple of smoked turkey sandwiches and a short lunch break. After lunch we went south on Rt 550 towards Durango. The ride up to Ouray was so-so, but after filling up with some really bad smelling gas and continuing south the road and scenery was absolutely gorgeous. At the gas station I had told my Dad to go ahead and to take his time on this road and I'd meet him in Durango. With that, after getting a little giggy with the switchbacks leaving town, I just sat back and cruised about 60-65mph. I was really enjoying the ride and the wonderful scenery CO had to offer. I had hoped to find a nice quiet outlook to relax at for a while, but none were to be found along this road. At any rate, after a few stops I made my way into Durango and stopped at a DQ for some ice cream while I waited for my Dad. Thankfully, he spotted my VFR and pulled in just as I was getting my Banana Split blizzard. I asked if he wanted one and he declined.
We took a look at our maps and decided to head west on 160 and try to find a campsite near Dolores. Unfortunately we ended up wasting about an hour looking for a few campsites before we finally asked for directions. Once we knew where to go, we stopped at a convenient store, grabbed a 6 pack of the Rocky Mountain High Beer and proceeded to the McPhee Reservation. This was a great campsite and we had a wonderful view of a lake and the mountains in the distance. We setup camp, talked for a while about the days riding, made plans for the next day, then retired for the night.
Pictures:
Herding cattle south of Crawford, CO
A view along the Black Canyon
Just south of Ouray, CO
Some cattle near Durango, CO
Campsite #2 at the McPhee Reservation
Looking the other direction at our campsite
Day 5 - June 20, 2000 (Tuesday)
479 miles
Night 3 of camping again left me not feeling completely rested. This time though it was because of the noises outside my tent throughout the night. My Dad told me the next morning he'd also heard some strange sounds as well. I think my problem was the conversations I'd had with Jeff and Tad about BEARS before leaving town. At any rate, we packed up camp and began what we knew would be a long day of riding to get to the Grand Canyon. After some gas and a sit down breakfast along the way, we made out way to Four Corners where we road through all of the states and took the customary "look ma - I'm standing in 4 states pictures."
With not much to see here, I quickly saddled up and we backtracked a few miles so that we could get over to Monument Valley. The picture to the right is no doubt the postcard picture from Monument Valley. I thought this section of road was really neat and would definitely recommend it. I also started to understand what they mean by "in the desert you can't remember your name." Eventually we crossed into Arizona and stopped in Kayenta for gas and a quick lunch. Leaving the details out, let's just say that I should have been a little more observant of my surrounding here. I almost had a runin with a few poor Indians that were looking for trouble. Thankfully, my Dad came out just in time and foiled their plans.
From Kayenta we went southwest on Rt 160 down to Rt 89. Thankfully, the temperatures were still tolerable at this point, however, I could feel the familiar power of the sun in PHX and knew it was only a matter of time. After another 15 miles south we turned on Rt 64 which would take us over to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. The road leading up to the park offered your typical desert view for as far as the eye could see. Once at the park entrance, I paid our entrance fees and told my Dad I'd meet him at Grand Canyon city as to give us both plenty of time to stop. Had I known that Grand Canyon city was going to be a tourist traffic jam I would have just stopped at the first few outlooks and called it good. The Grand Canyon was without a doubt very impressive to see, but again I'm going to chalk it up as one of those I probably won't go back places. This is mostly because of the traffic that I think totally stressed my Dad out too. Maybe the thing to do would be to visit the North Rim next time. At any rate, I enjoyed a few lookout, took several pictures and eventually meet up with my Dad some time later.
With the temperatures now really starting to heat up, we started our trip back east to get out of the park. Unfortunately, we got stuck behind a park ranger that I was hesitant to pass despite his complete lack of cornering ability. Needless to say once he finally got out of our way I was very relieved and picked up the pace back to Rt 89 where we stopped for gas. The temps were now in the low 90's and the sun was really shining down hard on my BLACK aerostich. I thought to myself "I really hope it doesn't get any hotter." I should have known better.
The ride up Rt 89 was for the next 1/2 hour was very spirited. Then we ran into a major construction zone that left us parked on the road for another 1/2 hour. So much for the great time we were making. Once clear of the construction we pulled over and figured out where we were going to stay for the night. Due to the heat, I voted for a hotel and my Dad was quick to agree. With that we set our sites on Page, AZ. We settled on a non-chain hotel for the night and were both rather disappointed in the room. The beds were ok, but the smell was another story all together. My Dad opted for the shower while I went for a quick swim in the pool. After my swim I sat in a pool chair where it took about 90 seconds to completely dry off thanks to the powerful sun. The pool thermometer showed a scorching 99 degree's. Thankfully the A/C in our room worked! We visited a Pizza Hut up the road for dinner this night.
Pictures:
A view in Monument Valley
My bike crossing in Arizona
Panoramic view of the Grand Canyon
Another shot of the Canyon
Day 6 - June 21, 2000 (Wednesday)
262 miles
After tossing and turning most of the night, I awoke this morning feeling like total crap. I wasn't sure what was wrong with me, but I knew something wasn't right. It took me quite a while to get ready but eventually we got on the road in and attempt to 'ride it off'. My Dad made a few comments about not feeling very good either but seemed a little better off than I was. We left Page after a stop near Lake Powell for some pictures and headed west on Rt 89. Eventually we made it into Kanab, UT after what felt like an eternity (and was only 64 miles away). I was having a hard time keeping my eyes open (which is very rare for me in the morning) and almost had to pull over a few times. In Kanab we stopped at a gas station and I tried to kick-start my body by drinking some orange juice and some water. My Dad enjoyed a donut and some coffee to make the second time now that I missed breakfast while on the road (the last time was 8 miles from Asheville). Despite how I felt we pressed on.
Continuing north on Rt 89 we made it another ~50 miles before I pulled over near Hatch. I couldn't keep my eyes open and was in desperate need of a Coke. I was actually feeling a little better and thought I'd be out of the woods soon. However, my Dad was now starting to show the signs and had to lay down on the grass for a while before we continued. Once back on the road we turned east on Rt 12 which would take us through the Bryce Canyon area. From what I remember of the area it was very scenic and had huge red cliffs to begin with then eventually turned back into desert landscape. I only stopped for 1 or 2 pictures along the way because it seemed like every time I got off the bike I felt sick again. (anyone remember the X-files episode where people had to keep moving to stay alive?) Anyway, if you can't figure out where this is going by now - I'll end the suspense. Maybe 10 or 15 miles down Rt 12 I had to make an emergency stop. Let me just say that it is possible to a) stop a VFR from 65mph, b) make sure to get the bike on the sidestand, c) takeoff your gloves, helmet, and glasses, and then d) puke your guts out on the side of the road - all in 4.5 seconds. About this time I figured out it had to be food poisoning from the Pizza Hut we ate the night before.
After taking care of business, I was actually feeling good for the first time all morning. The timing couldn't have been better either because we ran into a nice section of twisties and I took advantage of my good health and got a little giggy with it. The night before my Dad and I had talked about trying to get some moving picture shots so I pulled over a ways down the road and waited for him to catch up with my camera in hand. I snapped a few pictures as my Dad rode by and then he pulled over. When he took his helmet off the look on his face told me it was his turn now. After about a 1/2 hour we pressed on and then about 15 minutes later my Dad disappeared in my mirror after a corner. I pulled over, waited a few seconds, then turned around and knew that he had probably just tried to beat my 4.5 second record. Anyway, leaving out the rest of the details we eventually made it to the next town that thankfully had a Days Inn where we stopped for the day after a record low number of miles. I had also digressed again and after hauling all of our gear up to the room I pretty much crashed for the day around 4pm. I have since contacted Pizza Hut regarding this incident and they of course apologized and are sending me a refund for the dinner we left on the side of the road.
Day 7 - June 22, 2000 (Thursday)
455 miles
Thankfully we both awoke this morning feeling much better. The 6 or 7 empty bottles of water on the night stand told the story. Not only had we gotten food poisoned, but we also got dehydrated in the desert heat. We enjoyed eating again and took advantage the continental breakfast before pressing on. Originally we had hoped to make it as far north as Montana, but we knew that would never happen now after yesterdays delay. We altered our plans slightly and decided to just head back into CO for a few days before heading for home. From Torrey where we had stayed we took Rt 24 east all the way up to the interstate. The first section of Rt 24 was great, though I think we were thankful just to be feeling good again. Once into Hanksville we continued on 24 north. The picture above was taken while riding along this road. I have to say that this section of 24 gets my vote for one of the straightest, loneliest roads I've ever been on. The scenery was great though and I got a chance to make a few high speed runs too. :)
Once onto I70 we crossed back into Colorado and stopped for gas and another Subway lunch. At this point in the trip I think my Dad had reached his Subway quota as he had troubles finishing his lunch. After lunch we went a few more miles on the interstate then exited south on Rt 65. This road was one of my favorites from the trip and to go along with the wonderful scenery it had some nice twisties to offer as well. After regrouping at the end of Rt 65 we went east on Rt 92 over to Hotchkiss for the second time on this trip. In order to hit some roads to the south we were forced to ride along the Black Canyon of the Gunnison again (hey, it's a rough life but someone had to do it). I enjoyed the ride along Rt 92 as much if not more than the first time through since I didn't have to stop as many pictures. I also got my one and only peg drag for the trip this time through (yes, it was a right hander). Eventually we interested with Rt 50 which we took east this time. The Monarch pass along Rt 50 was nice and we tried to find a campsite in the area but failed because of a mad swarm of mosquitos. We ended up in Salida for the night and went shopping at Walmart for a more healthy dinner.
Day 8 - June 23, 2000 (Friday)
567 miles
From Salida we went north on Rt 24 to Buena Vista (I said Buena) where we stopped for our first sit down breakfast since leaving CO. I of course enjoyed some B&G while my Dad chose the more traditional egg breakfast. After a hearty meal we continued north on Rt 24 to Leadville where we connected with Rt 91 this time through. This road definitely has to get added to the don't miss if you're in the area list. I also got my favorite picture from the trip on this road - the mountain reflection at the beginning of my report. The mountain air felt great, the scenery was beautiful, and I really enjoyed the morning ride across this road. I think my Dad lead most of the way across this road also.
Once we intersected with I70 again we took it a short 10 miles over to Rt 9 which we took north. Unfortunately 10,000 other bicyclist also decided to tour this road today and we got caught up in traffic all the way to Kremmling. Continuing north we passed Rt 134 and stopped at a very nice campground / recreation shortly after it. We enjoyed the scenery for a while before eventually moving on. Our next stop was for a local town cafe lunch in Walden after turning onto Rt 14. After lunch we continued east on Rt 14 and eventually made it to Fort Collins. This definitely, without a doubt, is a don't miss section of road. For 50 miles or more Rt 14 follows a stream through the mountains. Once again, words can not explain how wonderful this road was and it is no doubt another of my favorites from the trip - if not the best. We stopped a couple times along this road and I could have stopped many more. At the end of Rt 14 we made the decision to begin our journey home as it was only 3pm and we really didn't have anymore riding to do in CO. After a slight communication problem regarding the directions we gased up and merged onto I24 north.
A short time later we crossed into Wyoming for the first time and jumped onto Rt 80 (again). The rest of the afternoon was just interstate time with the exception of a tornado my Dad pointed out to me to our south. I'm sure glad it stayed south of us! With the temps in the low 90's I decided I couldn't make it past North Platte, NB where we stopped for the night. The first two hotels we stopped at were sold out but the good ole Best Western thankfully had a room for us. We walked over to Arby's, had a roast beef sandwich then crashed for the night. I was exhausted.
Pictures:
Me riding the VFR in CO
The bikes along Rt 14
Day 9 - June 24, 2000 (Saturday)
750 miles
Being too close to make two more days out of it, we decided to slab it the rest of the way home in one day. The day was thankfully uneventful except for about 6 hours of rain that we ran into around Des Moines, Iowa. We were on the road shortly after 7am and I was home around 7:30p after what is to date my longest day of riding yet (miles wise).
Summary:
This was an amazing trip! It's still hard for me to believe that only 1-1/2 years ago I thought a long trip was to Wisconsin for a day ride. If someone would have asked me then if I would ever consider riding to Arizona I would have told them they were crazy. How quickly times change. When I first started taking motorcycle trips I had no idea what I was getting into. This trip has more than anything helped me understand what the road now means to me. At this stage of my life I use the road as an escape from the reality of day-to-day life. I try to forget about everything possible and strive to find that "peaceful easy feeling." I realized though that I may be trying too hard as my Dad and I had a few minor conflicts that looking back could have been avoided. We've since talked through them and worked everything out and I think we'll be better riding partners now as a result.
After re-reading Tad's conclusion from last years final trip (even though he told me not too) I now understand what he's been trying to tell me all along. The road means different things to everyone and you've just got to take it as it comes and not look back. Not long ago I would have never considered taking a trip like this without detailed route plans. Now I can't imagine doing it any other way than we did on this trip. Camping is also something that I was opposed to at first but now realize can really enhance a trip (not to mention save money). Overall this was like I said a great trip. My VFR performed perfectly and didn't miss a single beat, even at altitude (and averaged around 45 MPG btw). There weren't as many twisty roads as I thought there would be and that didn't even seem to bother me. I was more amazed at how beautiful the Rocky Mountains were. I'm not sure when I'll make it back but I know that I will someday.
Links:
All of my photos on two pages
(page 1)
(page 2)
- WARNING(~ 2 MEG per page)
My homepage
My Dad's report
